The beauty brands leading the way on inclusivity

By Jenny Brownlees

It should be standard practise in 2020 that everyone can visit a beauty counter or store and find their perfect match in product form.

Unfortunately, some brands are lagging behind when it comes to catering to a wide spectrum of races and ethnicities. A white or light skinned woman has long been able to walk into any store and find make up and haircare that enhances their natural beauty. For darker skinned women however, this historically hasn’t been the case.

Luckily, the industry is changing, with a wider representation of gender, race and age being celebrated in advertising campaigns and the media. This does however need to translate to in-store experience — whilst many brands have begun to offer a more diverse shade range in their cosmetics online, products must be made available in-store so customers have the chance to see and try a tester — an experience those with lighter skin tones never have to think twice about being available. It is crucial beauty manufacturer’s move beyond light, medium or dark shades only and offer products that suit every skin and hair type. In this day and age, there really is no excuse for this not to be the norm. Inclusive and diverse make up does not simply start and end with foundation and concealer, either. For many black women, finding powders, blushers, bronzers and highlighters that suit their skin tones is still a struggle. Whilst there are some gems that cater for all, more work is needed.

These are the brands, from high-end to budget that are showing us how the cosmetic and haircare industry should look…

Fenty changed the beauty game when it launched in 2017. Rihanna’s forward-thinking line offered products for a wide range of darker skin tones and demand was so high the range instantly sold out. This foundation comes in an impressive 50 shades, suiting all skin types and tones — hence their tagline “Beauty For All.” The brand’s gorgeously styled, diverse ad campaigns and imagery cannot go without mentioning, either. Beyond their foundation, every single item in the range is suited to all skin tones — a true triumph. There’s no doubt there has been a ‘Fenty effect’ in the industry, their worldwide popularity and praise from consumers has made many beauty brands follow their exceptional lead by expanding their own shade ranges.

Offering 50 shades of foundation, Anastasia Beverly Hills wants to make sure everyone can experience their sought-after products. Last year, the brand paired with beauty influencer Jackie Aina to create an eyeshadow palette. Jackie regularly advocates for more diversity within the beauty industry and had previously expressed frustration that eyeshadow palettes on the market didn’t cater to women of colour, with too-pale or ashy products that don’t flatter darker skin tones. Anastasia Beverly Hill’s shadows ensure they use rich pigments that look great on all complexions.

Boasting 50 shades, this foundation is a consumer-fave. Urban Decay has put diversity at the centre of its brand —promoting individuality through its advertising campaigns, appointing a diverse range of brand ambassadors including award-winning singer Lizzo.

Milk Makeup was born from the desire to shake up the beauty industry, their inclusive and ‘gender-beautral’ products come in unisex packaging and the brand’s model-casting is some of the most diverse we’ve seen. This forward-thinking brand says yes to self-expression through make up, offering this Flex Foundation Stick in 36 shades.

Huda founder Huda Kattan worked hard to create foundation’s that didn’t look ashy on the skin, a common complaint from women of colour when trying to find the perfect foundation. Their #FauxFilter foundation, which is available in 30 shades is a long-standing fan favourite. Huda has also worked to develop translucent powders that are not one shade fits all.

NARS Cosmetics founder Francois Nars championed inclusivity from the beginning, and has been quoted as saying he believes foundation should be for everyone. The brand, which began in 1994 was one of the first to feature models Naomi Campbell and Alex Wek in their ad campaigns. Fast-forward to 2020 and their foundation comes in 35 shades, with their iconic Orgasm blusher available in an impressive 32 shades.

Legendary make-up artist Pat McGrath has worked at top fashion house’s runway shows for decades. She has often spoke about the need for make-up that caters to all skin tones. We knew when she started her much-anticipated cosmetics brand in 2019, that a diverse shade range would be a key component. The Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Foundation is an easily buildable base that comes in 36 universal colours and five shade levels, custom-curated for all skin types, tones and undertones.

Though not a make-up brand, we wanted to give a special shout-out to 79 Lux, founded by Karen Cummings-Palmer. HLN got to try the range and it is truly sumptuous treat for the skin. Not only is this better than any other body oil we’ve tried, buying from 79 Lux is a wonderful way to support a black and female owned business.

Budget brand Morphe is the go-to for high-coverage concealer on a budget. At just £10, their dark-circle and blemish eraser comes in 31 shades.

If you’re looking for an oil-free foundation, drugstore favourite Maybelline’s matte base is available in 40 shades, and is a steal at £5.99.

Need to conceal? Look no further than Can’t Stop Won’t Stop, available in 24 shades.

A steal at just £5, Revolution’s foundation offers a mattifying base, perfect for oily or blemish-prone skin. In 24 skin-true shades with a range of undertones, there’s full-coverage for all.

GHD has worked closely with Charlotte Mensah, the UK’s leading authority in afro and textured hair, to create three new attachments for their helios hairdryer that work with natural hair textures. The Comb Nozzle (£25) is best suited for Afro/textured hair, Charlotte explains, “The ghd professional comb nozzle is a game changer not only for the stylist but also for the consumer. I am especially impressed with its design that not only provides tension suitable for different densities of afro hair textures, but the rounded ends are brilliant for scalp comfort. I like to use the nozzle to create a sleek blow-out for my clients. My top tip is to blow dry in small sections ensuring each section is completely dry before moving onto the next. Damp hair equals frizz so, keep a water spray bottle handy to re-wet damp sections before thoroughly blow drying. Finish with a blast of cold air to close the cuticle to reduce frizz.” Additionally, The Diffuser Nozzle (£29) works perfectly with natural curls and The Wide Nozzle (£20) is best suited to long, thick hair.

Loretta De Feo developed Dizziak after feeling frustrated by the lack of deep conditioners that worked on all hair types and textures. Called ‘an aphrodisiac for afro hair’, this deep cleansing wash cleans without the use of any harsh chemicals. The all-vegan formula is super-hydrating, leaving hair soothed and smoothed.

The entire Keracare range has been praised as the go-to for keeping afro hair nourished and healthy. The range was developed by Dr. Ali N. Syed, a master chemist with a wealth of experience formulating products for textured hair. This moisturising oil will replenish dry hair without the use of sulphates, parabens, phthalates or petrolatum.

Award-winning stylist Charlotte Mensah has 26 years of expertise in the hair industry, and is the expert when it comes to maintaining healthy Natural Afro, Mixed & Curly textured hair. In her eponymous range, she has channelled her wealth of knowledge into hard-working, results-driven products. Use this shine-enhancing mist, with sustainably sourced Manketti Nut and Ximenia oils to condition, tame fly-aways and seal in a glossy shine.

During childhood visits to West Virginia, Nancy Twine would watch her grandmother, the town’s resident beauty guru, making homemade hair care products. In later life, Nancy soon realised the natural hair care on the market did not live up to its performance claims. She took her grandmother’s coveted recipes and worked with a natural chemist team to found Briogeo. Whilst the entire range caters to afro hair, this scalp massager is ideal for encouraging strength and growth. Use on wet or dry hair, alone or with your favourite shampoo, oil or treatment to increase blood flow to the scalp for strong, healthy hair.