A comprehensive guide to building a skincare routine

By Jenny Brownlees

When shopping for skincare in 2020, there’s more choice than ever.

This is a positive thing in many ways but can make things difficult unless you know exactly what you’re looking for. Furthermore, many skincare features, though wonderfully informative, expect the reader to understand not only the basics of a skincare routine but what each ingredient is and how to apply it.

Add into the mix skincare trends – J-Beauty vs K-beauty, a 12-step skincare routine vs skip-care and the wide variety of options and advice can begin to feel a little overwhelming.

Luckily, we’re here to help. We’ve compiled all the information you need to create a skincare routine that works for you, no matter your age or skin concern.

Knowledge is power, after all.

All about acids:

The word acid in skincare can still strike fear into some consumers. However, they are beneficial for many skin types, across all ages. Rather than exfoliating with harsh scrubs from days gone by, acids are actually gentler, working to rid build-ups of dead skin cells. The result? Glowing skin that feels soft and hydrated.

AHA Acids – Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are chemical exfoliants (Glycolic, Lactic, Malic acid, Citric are some common types.) They are water-soluble, meaning they only work on the skin’s surface layers. They exfoliate the top layers of skin, which will help reduce surface issues such as pigmentation and enlarged pores, but they won’t work deep into the skin. 

BHA Acids – BHAs, or beta hydroxy acid is more commonly known as salicylic acid. This works on a deeper level compared to AHA, to clear trapped sebum in the pores, slowing down the skin’s production of excess oil. This helps to clear and prevent breakouts – perfect for those with oily and congested skin. 

Hyaluronic acid – neither an AHA nor BHA, this acid is the super-hydrator. Each molecule of Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, drawing moisture to the skin.

Azelaic Acid – this naturally found acid, which is derived from grains works to reduce clogged pores and smooth the skin’s texture. It is beneficial to those who suffer redness – be it from rosacea, pigmentation or blemishes.

Using acids – Whilst you can use both AHA and BHA acids together on your skin, you should avoid applying them in the same routine. Instead, alternate their use on alternate evenings. Brands The Inkey List and The Ordinary have revolutionised the skincare market in recent years, offering the aforementioned ingredients at factory prices. If you’re unsure of anything, both offer complementary services to teach you when and how to use their products, in order to perfectly tailor your regimen.

Visit The Inkey List.

Visit The Ordinary.

Which order do I apply my skincare in?

The general rule of thumb is to begin your routine with the thinnest product and end at the thickest.

In the morning: Cleanse to wake up the skin, increase circulation and prep your face, so it can properly absorb the products that follow. If you exercise in the day, it is important to cleanse again afterwards to remove sweat from the skin. Follow with a toner – these generally contain plant extracts and essential oils to remove any impurities that may be leftover after cleansing.

In the daytime: Add an antioxidant serum which will penetrate deep into the skin layers. Vitamin C will work wonderfully as a brightening agent, giving you that healthy glow. Pair this with hyaluronic acid to give skin a quench of hydration. For normal or oily skin types this will suffice moisture-wise, but you have dry skin you can also use a day cream. Last but not least, that 30+ SPF.

In the evening: Cleanse thoroughly, not only to remove makeup and oils that will have built up on the skin throughout the day, but the lurking pollution that comes from city living. Use an acid exfoliant here, to remove dead cell build-up and leave skin looking radiant. Since your skin heals itself at night, a specific night-time cell-renewing moisturiser will work well. If you have dry skin, use a rich night-time moisturiser or overnight mask.

Eye care: Don’t neglect the delicate skin under your eyes. You can use an eye cream day or night, for a boost of active ingredients that moisturise and brighten.

Once a week: Apply a mask or peel treatment to clean skin after cleansing, toning and serum but before moisturiser (unless it’s an overnight mask you will leave on the skin.) For acne-prone skin, a clay mask will absorb oil and can have a gentle exfoliating effect. If you have dry skin, a hydrating sheet mask will offer a boost of hydration. For ageing skin, rich overnight masks are generally thicker and work whilst you sleep to treat the skin to a dose of potent ingredients as it repairs.